Hardwood Floor Refinishing

Floor installation, Floor repair

Posts Tagged ‘floor’

To start the installation, we are going to need to choose the starting wall, and make a reference line, using this picture as a hint:

Here you can see that green line goes along with the longest line between the sheets of plywood. We gonna need to refer to this line for accuracy.
Now measure the space from the wall to this reference line on both ends of it and in the middle also. If all measurements are even and the wall is straight itself (which happens quite seldom), then it’s a perfect situation, where you can use a wall as a reference line, and simply start from it, without measuring anything else.
That’s easy. But we’ll stick with the situation which takes place much more often: crooked walls. Take a closer look at the picture below:

Put a row of boards along the starting wall tightly. Measure the space like you did before, and choose the shortest space between reference line and the board. Remember that measurement. Let’s pretend it is 2 feet and 4 inches. Now measure 2 feet and 4 inches twice, on both ends of the reference line towards the starting wall. Mark these two spots with a pencil precisely. And finally snap the line. Time for a  break!

Floor installation: the beginning.

By Broc.

It is time to get to the actual details on the hardwoods installation process. When you have shopped around and finally found the type of hardwood flooring you wanted, it is necessary to have it kept in your house for about two weeks, or at least for a few days. The longer the better, but two weeks is pretty much enough, though. It is done for the purpose of acclimatisation of the wood with your house temperature. This way wood won’t start shrinking later, which would have happened if you’d install it right away. After you have waited enough, it is time to begin the installation process. Clean the area very well, it should be nice and flat, especially for prefinished flooring. Drive down sticking out nails, remove little pieces of stones, and sweep well. Oh, almost forgot: if you’re using the staples, never install on the particle board! It is NOT suitable for holding staples, and later on the floor will move, since particle board doesn’t hold staples and nails very well. Install on the plywood or existing old wooden flooring. If you have a particle board for the sub floor, you need to either remove it or install a plywood on top of it, depending on the clearance issues. So, after preparing the surface, choose the wall you gonna start at. If you’re installing on a plywood, lay the boards preferably across the beams. You can easily determine the way the beams go by looking at the longest nail lines on a plywood, or, if in doubt, you can figure it out by looking at the beams in the basement. If you’re installing on the existing flooring (could be wide pine planks or just worn out hardwoods) always go across it. This way new floor will be more flat and stronger.

Floor installation overview

By Broc.

Hello everyone,  I welcome You to my section of NE Floors portal!
The section is mainly devoted to hardwood floors installation and repair. Today we’ll discuss how to install unfinished/prefinished hardwood floors in your house. Besides basic installation technique, you’ll learn a few useful advise and tips, which will help you to complete your task right, and your floors look nice. For the tools needed, see “Hardwood installation tools and equipment”. First of all, you need to decide what type of hardwood floor you want to lay down, unfinished or prefinished. There’s not much of a difference in the methods you will use for either of them, except for that when you’re dealing with prefinished floor, you have to be much more causcios. If you’ll leave a scratch, groove or crack on the prefinished floor, you might not always be able to fix it . Some of it you can fix, by putting polyurethane over it for example, but sometimes problematic spot is beyond an easy fix and attracts unwanted attention. Thus, you have to make your way to victory carefully, step by step, without leaving any bad spots behind, otherwise you might have to do some repairs afterwards, which is never a pleasure to do. It takes time and effort, and can be avoided. Shall be. Unfinished flooring is much easier to deal with, considering the fact you can skip more or less bad spots while moving on, and take care of ‘em later relatively easy. Grooves, scratches, scuffs, nail holes, cracks, misplaced staples, broken pieces, all of that can be punched down, patched and/or glued. After that, when you’ll be finished with sanding part (which is necessary for the unfinished floors), it won’t look bad but rather nice. Ok,  I’ll see You in the next chapter, bye!

So, you just bought the house, or lived in the house for years and all this time you had a wall to wall carpeting, or in some cases linoleum..One of those days you decided to remove it, lifted it up and discovered a hardwood flooring, which is in really bad shape(sometimes covered in glue or other nasty stuff).Well, what’s next?

You have 2 choices here: do it yourself or hire a professional. Let’s do some thinking.

Of course a lot of homeowners will say that they can do their floors easily.That statement could not be further from the truth.Floor refinishing is not the type of work that anyone can do.There are so many ways to screw up your floors, while sanding them, that I could probably write another article just on this topic.Not to mention a mess you can make while coating your floors.

But let’s imagine, that every homeowner has a good idea of the refinishing process.Let’s just talk numbers here.We are going to take one room, for example(for bigger projects you’re definitely going to need a pro, unless you have a huge amount of pills for the back, knees and hands).

The floor guy will charge you something like $300-$500 for the room.That normally includes sanding your floor down to the wood, 1 coat of sealer and 2 coats of polyurethane.Of course, he has tools necessary for completion of the job.

If you will decide to refinish the floors yourself, you are going to need the following:

1.Big drum/belt sander(220v), which will be unavailable to rent, because it is made especially for professional  use and it’s a little tricky.So you will end up renting a small(110v) belt sander at the Home Depot for around $50 a day+ the sandpaper(say another $40).Note: with the small sander you won’t come even close to the result you’re looking for.It simply lacks power necessary to take of all the old finish.

2.Edger(around $20)+ the sandpaper-another $40.

3.Radiator sander- good luck looking for that one.the only way to get it is to buy it.they retail new for around $500.

4.Buffer- another $20+ the sreen for it($5)

5.Vacuum cleaner(let’s hope that you have a good one)

6.Polyurethane - I’d say since we’re talking about one room only you’re going to need 1 gal. of sealer($20) and 1 gal. of poly($20)

I’m not going to mention here all the small tools that you’re going to need to do the job right.Let’s do the math: to refinish the floor yourself, you’re going to spend $215(if everything goes nice and smooth and if you know what are you doing)  , not to mention your time(how much would you pay yourself to do this job?) and effort.

Well, here is the info you going to need to make a decision.The rest is up to you.Good luck!

Staining the floor

Lets talk about the staining of your floors using the most popular oil-based stain.
First and foremost: sand the floor down to the wood! You do not want to apply the stain over the old finish: it will take forever to dry and won’t stick to the floor.You will end up having the floor with what I’d like to call “a marker effect”: try to make a mark with the  magic marker and take it off-comes off very easy!
The bottom line is: if you won’t sand the old finish off completely, you’ll end up making more mess than you used to have before the start of the project.
Next, you’ll need to pick up the color of the stain for your floors: I wouldn’t use the brochures, that they have at the hardware stores,
but buy a couple of sample cans of stain and apply it at home:that way you will know how the stain is going to look like on YOUR floor.
Also, I have to mention, that it’s not a good idea to buy the stain in a 1 gallon cans anymore, because it is a low VOC stain: it is very hard to apply, and it dries up way too quickly, leaving you with uneven, ugly looking finish.If you want to use the oil-based stain, get it in quarts.
Ok, now the floor is sanded and the stain color is picked: what’s next?
I’ll try as much as I can to avoid talking about the application process(you can read all about it on the back of the can), but I have to say a couple of things about the prep work:
1. Before application, I would tape all the baseboards.That way I would avoid messing them up with the stain.The best type to use is blue or green Scotch masking tape: do not buy the cheap white one, because this kind will pull all the paint off the baseboard.
2. Heavy coat, hard wood (such as oak or maple) and high humidity can increase the drying time. In some cases I saw the stain being wet for a week.
The worst time for a staining job is July, August and September due to the highest level of humidity during these months(that of course if you leave near water).
If you have more than one room to stain, consider calling a flooring company: believe me, you will save yourself a lot of time, money and effort.Good luck!